Vietnam


Throughout Southeast Asia the reminders of war are everywhere.  Bomb casings in Laos are used as household decorations (railings and such).  In Cambodia, one cannot go a day without seeing a person missing a limb.  Vietnamese sites of interest usually touch on one of the wars fought here in the last century.  And throughout the region signs warn visitors not to stray from well-trod paths–mines and unexploded ordanance litter the countryside.  The cause of these reminders of tragedy?  In many cases, the not-so-Cold War.

This blog doesn’t contain anything that hasn’t been written before.  But after spending the last month and a half in a state of semi-shame having seen the disasterous effects of my country’s policy, I feel compelled to recount this history. Not to do so seems foolish, and continues the opening of Pandora’s boxes of unintended consequences.

Relative Temperature: A Brief History of the Cold War

The term “the Cold War” was coined to describe the relations between the U.S and the U.S.S.R. Because the two countries never had direct military engagement, despite a large-scale military buildup, the war footing between the two was best described as cold. However, how cold that war was really depends on who you’re talking to, as hot proxy battles and wars were fought around the globe. These wars were the result of mis-employing political scientist George Kennan’s strategy of containment. The goal of containment, as put forth by Kennan, was to keep Communism pent up in its borders. Unfortunately, this wasn’t such a tidy concept as the war in Vietnam shows. The lines between communism and nationalism became blurred as many civilians preferred those fighting for communism to those colonial-like invaders who wanted to fight for their (multi-meaning pronoun use) freedom.

A Deadly Game of Dominoes

As the logic went, if one country in Southeast Asia fell to Communism, they would all fall–the so-called domino effect.  The focal point of this conflict became Vietnam.  Given Vietnams’ geography, which is a thin piece of land stretching North-South along both Laos’ and Cambodia’s Eastern border, it is inevitable, though not publicized, that these countries would become involved. 

To be fair, both the U.S. and the People’s Liberation Armed Forces (PLAF; Viet Cong) used both Laos and Cambodia as a side-show to the war.  For the PLAF, these countries were a handy route (the Ho Chi Minh Trail) from the North of Vietnam, where the Viet Cong ruled, to the South, where the U.S. was backing an anti-communist government.  Of course, the U.S. needed to sever these crucial supply lines, as well as the support that PLAF was giving to indigenous communists in Laos, and what better way than a bombing campaign.

And what a campaign it was.   Between 1964 and 1973, the number of bombs dropped in Laos during what has been dubbed “The Secret War” (it had to be. The U.S. helped develop the 1954 Geneva Accords respecting Laos’ neutrality) was roughly 3 million tons, the heaviest U.S. led bombing since WWII.   Laos is about 80% agrarian with sticky rice being a dietary staple. The bombs that riddled the countryside then, and still now, made going to work a dangerous proposition.  Over 350,000 civilians are thought to have been killed by the U.S. bombing campaign in those 7 years. That’s over 130 people per day, every day, for seven years out of a population of only 3 million. And the unexploded bombs continue to kill even today.

The Devil You Know

In Cambodia, similar bombing campaigns along the southern portion of the Ho Chi Minh Trail led to social and political upheaval. People angered by this seemingly inexplicable bloodshed and frustrated with the corrupt government of the U.S. backed Lon Nol, who was allowing the bombing (in 1965 the then King Sihanouk had allowed the North Vietnamese to establish bases and use Cambodia for supplies, provoking the U.S. bombing), walked into the open arms of the Khmer Rouge, an arm of Cambodia’s Communist party. Just as in Vietnam, political forces were more than communist vs anti-communist. In both countries the communist party doubled as a national party, one that was attractive because it was home-grown and against the so-called new colonial invaders. Who would you support?  A corrupt government backed by the U.S. who is bombing your country or communists preaching equality and national pride with the backing of your revered, deposed king?  Sadly, Cambodia, a country which desparetely wanted to remain neutral after gaining its independence from France in 1965 ended up having to chose between a domestic devil and a foreign one.  Unfortunately, the former won when the U.S. gave up in 1973, and genocide ensued killing between 1 and 2 million Cambodians. During the dropping of 2,756,941 tons of bombs, an estimated 150,000 people were killed.

Crystal Balls and Collateral Damage

All told, the U.S. escapades in Southeast Asia came at the cost of about 60,000 U.S. lives and roughly 2 million Laotion, Cambodian and Vietnamese lives (double that if you include the victims of the genocide. U.S. bombing in Cambodia contributed to the Khmer Rouge coming to power).  We have no way of really knowing what would have happened had the U.S. not pursued its policy of containment to such a degree. However, all signs point to the fact that neither China nor the U.S.S.R. were out for world domination. Difficult though that may have been to see at the time, it seems implausible that the worst-case scenario envisioned by politicians could have been any worse than the death and destruction that the wars in Southeast Asia brought at the risk of nuclear war.

And for what?  All three countries experienced communist governments after the U.S. left in the early ’70’s.  And the U.S. continued on, despite containment having not worked.

Lingering Heat

The fighting in Southeast Asia wasn’t the only hot part of the Cold War. Afghanistan, for example, was the U.S.S.R’s “Vietnam.” While the U.S. didn’t have official troops there, we were supporting and funding those fighting against the Soviets. And just to prove that history isn’t so tidy, those fighting against the Soviets included none other than Osama bin Laden.

Too often, it seems, we settle for our information in easily digested pieces. It’s what keeps the Vietnam War only in Vietnam for most people. It’s what ends the Cold War in 1989 and restarts a chapter in history in 2001. This compartmentalization is a dangerous habit for it seems to overlook connections and consequences. While the Cold War did not cause the rise of bin Laden, it did create the conditions for him to train and connect with other idealist Islamists. Just as the Vietnam War leaked into neighboring countries, so too does history leak from one era to the next, often with unforeseen consequences.

Much has been made about Vietnam’s recent economic growth spurt (a whopping 7.4% on average over the last five years) and its admission into the World Trade Organization last November–big steps for a developing country.  Ever since the 1990’s, when Vietnam opened its borders to increased trade, (the U.S. and Vietnam signed an open trade agreement in 2000) the country’s economic situation has been on the up and up.  In fact, the largest importer of Vietnamese goods is the U.S.  Conversely, the U.S. has exported many of its products to Vietnam,  so that now Vietnamese can also enjoy Oreos, Pepsi, and Kentucky Fried Chicken.  Yep, Kentucky’s own export has made great inroads in the era of economic freedom in Vietnam.  Colonel Sander’s face grins down from many a sign in Saigon.

What hasn’t made the news is the political liberalization of Vietnam.  In fact, when I do a google search for ’political liberalization Vietnam’ there is very little that I find, and even less that I can access.  Two blogs that come up on google’s top ten have not opened in any of the cities I’ve tried (Curious if one can outside the country or if they are just dead sites.  http://vietpundit.blogspot.com and www.queme.net/eng/ Please let me know what they say if you can access them).  I have been unable to access Human Rights Watch or other such sites as well.

Until recently, Vietnam’s socialist government kept close tabs on its citizens, prohibiting them from staying in hotels, and requiring them to seek permission to meet with a foreigner.  I’m under the impression that things have changed a lot (though I have no basis for that thought).  What gives me pause, however, is the lack of access to information about life in Socialist Vietnam and the knowledge that people advocating for democracy are subject to arrest (see the link to the article on the right about an ethnic Vietnamese U.S. citizen’s return to his birth country).

Additionally, as an independent tourist in Vietnam, I feel surprisingly like I am part of a very controlled tour group.  This is because most tourism is done through tour companies, relegating travelers to tourist buses as opposed to the public transport that locals use.  While this happens in other places (Thailand has a rather polished system to bus tourists from Bangkok to the beaches that involves lots of stickers) the degree to which it happens here is, well, stifling.  To be fair, I haven’t tried very hard to find a public bus, but the few inquiries I’ve made have been neatly segued into a sale for a tourist bus ticket.  Furthermore, the limited number of destinations keeps tourists neatly corralled in a few cities and pleasant beach towns.

So as Colonel Sanders makes in-roads in Vietnam, let’s hope the hands-off economic policy that has welcomed him brings with it a hands-off attitude to society and politics.

FYI– I arrived back in the U.S. last night, having waited to publish this post from outside the country (excessively precautious, but I didn’t want to deal with either a) being detained or, more importantly b) somehow losing my post to the censors!). Sure enough, I can access site related to Vietnam’s political scene outside of the country.

On another note, just because the adventure is over doesn’t mean that the writing is. I have a backlog of posts in my head and will continue writing at least a few more. I hope that you’ll keep reading.

I admit it.  I stereotype people on occasion.  Ed can probably write all about my irrational disdain for backpackers (and why I have proudly taken my wheelie throughout Southeast Asia’s often unpaved roads).  Well, most stereotypes get busted and one that surprisingly did on this trip was my firm belief that Asians, as a group, every single one of them, are thin.  Sure, most are, but much to my surprise I’ve seen dozens of people both on the street and tourists like myself who are on the heavier side, adults and children alike.  I suppose it’s not a surprise, given the prevalence of processed foods and candy.  Oreos are everywhere!

Given that obesity has taken a main position in the pantheon of health problems in the U.S., contributing to increases in Type II Diabetes, heart problems, and life-style difficulties, I thought I would take a look at how this issue is affecting this region and the world at large.

While my stereotype of the small, thin Asian isn’t totally off base– I have a hard time shopping in many of the stores here–there is a growing weight problem in some of these countries, seemingly in the more affluent ones (with access to high-fat/calorie, low nutrition foods).  According to wrongdiagnosis.com, roughly 12,000,000 people from Vietnam’s 82,700,000 population are overweight.  That’s a pretty heavy statistic!  Similarly in Thailand, over 10% of the population is overweight.  Of course, that doesn’t come close to America’s whopping 25% obesity rate.

But guess what?  Contrary to popular belief, the U.S. is not the most obese country in the world.  According to The Economist, the U.S. ranks #5 for men and #8 for women in terms of percentage of population that are obese.  The ones who tip the scale? Lebanon, Qatar, Kuwait and Panama for men and Qatar, Saudi Arabia, West Bank and Gaza, Lebanon, Panama, Albania, and Bahrain for the women.  There’s something in the Middle Eastern cooking… or lifestyle.

The spread of obesity is clearly a global problem, especially as the trappings of the sedentary lifestyle keep more people behind the wheels of a car or moto, or at a desk rather than walking, cycling, and working outdoors.  Of even greater concern is the fact that obesity is not unique to developed countries.  As I have seen, many developing countries suffer from obesity, with the cause being easy access to cheap high fat/calorie and low-nutrient rich food.

So while the U.S. certainly isn’t winning any awards for thinness, neither is the rest of the world– probably to everyone’s detriment.  It’s just so hard to choose a banana when those Oreos look so damn good.

http://www.wrongdiagnosis.com/o/obesity/stats-country.htm

http://archives.cnn.com/2000/HEALTH/diet.fitness/01/12/world.obesity/  

http://www.who.int/dietphysicalactivity/publications/facts/obesity/en/